Cordsmith, I-Cord Maker Tool - Frequently Asked Questions, Tips and Tricks

Who designed the Cordsmith?

Autumn Eden-Goodman, Founder of @SizeInclusiveCollective, took the idea and her fiber arts knowledge and worked with her husband and his 3D design skills to create Cordsmith. Over multiple iterations she finally landed on a version that was functional and accessible.

Is the Cordsmith tool accessible?

It’s lightweight, designed to be able to be used left or right handed, has a texture on both sides that makes it easy to hold onto and is sized that small hands can grip it firming while hands with dexterity issues or conditions like arthritis can grasp and worked with a relaxed hand. It actually works better if you’re relaxed which means you can work longer without fatigue. The Original Cordsmith and Cordsmith Mini have identical handles and the needle lengths are about the same so switching between them will feel natural.

Are there more sizes?

Yes! The Original Cordsmith is designed to be ‘one size fits most’! I’ve personally tested it with fingering weight up to bulky and I’m seeing others using chunky yarn like Rasta or Mecha with no problem! Some people are even using fingering weight to make an i-cord and then using that to make a bulky weight i-cord.

Cordsmith Mini is intended for yarn weights lace up to sport and creates a cord about the gauge of bulky weight yarn. The process for using them is the same!

How do you cast on?

Create a slip knot and wrap it around the right needle, under the middle needle, and around the left needle. Tighten the knot and then, after making sure all of the needles are open, wrap your yarn across all three needles. Holding onto the tail of the slip knot pull forward, up and over the needles. Pull back towards the handle to complete your stitch and it will reopen your needles. Pull back up towards the middle below the open needles to start your next stitch. Repeat until you have the number of stitches you need. You can watch a video here.

How do you change colors?

Grab your new color and, leaving a little bit of a tail, yarn over and start your next stitch. You can hold the new tail and old tail together with your cord to make it easier for the first stitch to add stability. When you’re finished with the cord or have a couple of inches down, twist the tails once so the colors point at their sections and weave them back into the middle of their matching color sections of cord. You can watch a video here.

How do you bind off?

Take your tail and place on a tapestry needle. Pull through each of the loops as you pull them off the needles. Pull tight and weave in. You can watch a video here.

How do you pick up dropped stitches?

Stitches popping off is usually due to trying to work too fast. It’s easiest if you pull the stitches back a round or two so your yarn is back at the “starting position” stitch and then picking the stitches back up to keep working. For me, since I’m right handed and I like to wrap clockwise, my starting stitch is the one on the right. For Cordsmith Mini, you might find it helpful to have a crochet hook or tapestry needle handy to help pick up stitches due to the smaller needles and spacing. You can watch a video about picking up stitches here.

How do you do an applied I-cord bind off?

Pick up the first three stitches of the icord bind off – one per needle – and work the stitch with Cordsmith and then you’ll pick up your next stitch on your left needle to work the next stitch repeating down the edge until you’ve bound off all stitches. While both the Original Cordsmith and Cordsmith Mini work for i-cord bind offs, you may prefer Cordsmith Mini for lace/fingering/sport projects to provide a tighter gauge and sleeker finish. You can watch a video here.

Is my Cordsmith broken?

A visible seam is normal due to the way our tool is printed and assembled since the handle is printed in two parts. Needles that seem wiggly or loose are also normal! That little bit of wiggle allows for flexibility which makes your stitches easier to work while also providing strain relief so your needles are less likely to break. If you have a handle that has actually fallen apart or a needle that has broken, please reach out with photos and I’ll contact Autumn to arrange for a replacement right away.

What can the Cordsmith be used for?

Anything that requires knitted cord!

Use it to create i-cord to cast on a project – it works especially well for crochet in place of a traditional chain cast on!
Use it to create an attached i-cord bind off
Drawstrings for hoodies, pants, and bags
Lanyards for keys and ID/work badges
Use the i-cord to knit or crochet a super squishy blanket, rugs or chair cushions
Add beads as you go to make sparkly bracelets or holiday garland
Wrap around round foam balls to make holiday decorations
Hanging loops for stockings
Knotted clasps for cardigans
Loops and ties for sewn dresses and tops
Slide over wire shapes and words
Bag straps
Macramé art and plant hangers
Weaving and decorative wall hangings
Strings to attach mittens or hat ties
Bows for hair and barrettes

Any other tips and tricks?

Be patient! The first stitch or three can be a little finicky so don’t give up! I recommend using a yarn with a little bit of stretch to start and a heavier weight like DK or worsted for the Original and fingering for the Mini. Cotton or linen aren’t as easy for beginners, due to the lack of stretch, but can be used with practice. Novelty yarns like boucle, fur, or feathers are definitely are not beginner friendly. Slub yarn can be used with the Original but the slubs are too big for the Mini. When you’re working, keep your working yarn loose and it will be easier to pull your stitches up and over. Once you’ve got a few stitches you’ll have more of the cord to grab which makes things easier! Since you have the cord to hold you’ll find that you won’t have issues with twisting or with needing weights to keep your tension consistent unlike traditional i-cord machines. With a little practice and patience you’ll be zooming along in no time!